When you think Russian food in NYC it is easy to think, yes, let's head out to Brighton Beach in Brooklyn. But this area is actually much more Ukrainian, that is why it is called "Little Odessa." There are some Russian eateries there, and some colorful markets. However, for the most authentic Russian dining experience, one which prepares the classics of Russian cuisine, among a colorful and at times celebrity-laced crowd, one must come to Russian Samovar. Since 1986, this theater district mainstay, the creation of Russian Roman Kaplan, and partially owned by ballet dancer Mikhail Baryshnikov and the late Noble Prize winner for Literature Joseph Brodsky. From it's opening it immediately became "the place" for the leading Russians in the world of entertainment, politics, thought and literature to gather. The Samovar has lost some of that feeling of a "Russian Club," as the patrons today are more international. But it is still a high-spirited place, and Mr. Kaplan is still very much vibrant presence on a nightly basis.
Russian Samovar has that alluring combination of being elegant and quirky at the same time. For dinner the lights are low and the piano is accompanied by a singer, and sometimes a violinist. There is a wide range of different style art adoring the walls, most Russian themed and some quite amusing.
Roman Kaplan, a native of St. Petersburg is the creator if Russian Samovar. When he opened the restaurant in 1986 he said his objective was "to have a meeting place in the guise of a restaurant, where Bohemians and intellectuals can network and share their art, concepts, and ideas." His idea, his hope worked in spades as the restaurant was an immediate success with the Russian people he was hoping to attract. In the early years, and into the 90's the heyday of the place some of the following that were known to attend; Rudoph Nuryev, Yul Brynner, Gary Kasprov, Alexander Godunov, even Mikhail Gorbachev.
Salmon tartar with salmon caviar . . . heaven.
Perhaps the most famous of all Russian classic dishes, Beef Strogonoff. Tender strips of beef cooked in sour cream sauce over noodles. Very good. A couple of the other entrees I especially enjoy are the Chicken Kiev, and the Home-Style Pelemni (Russian Ravioli filled with veal).
I mentioned before the artwork, it is eclectic and some of the pieces quite arresting. Here we have an oil painting of a woman seated by her faithful samovar looking as if she just came from the shower. There is a bass relief sculpture of Vladimir Putin positioned not on the main dining floor, but on the wall right next to the men's toilet downstairs. Hmm, need to ask Mr. Kaplan about the "positioning" of that work.
What makes the Russian Samovar extra special beyond the tasty dishes, and the fifteen flavored vodkas, is the spirit of the place. This high-spirit is spurred on by the entertainment that revolves around the piano. Sometimes just someone playing, other times accompanied by violin, and sometimes with a singer. Most often and I am pleased to say this the singing is in Russian. In an evening you are likely to be treated to all. The restaurant patrons enjoy the music very much often breaking out is dancing and singing. On the year of Samovar's "30th anniversary" this is a great time to visit this Russian and enjoy!
Russian language lesson - "Hello" (Pri-viet) "Thank you" (Spasiba) "Delicious" (Fkoos-na)
Interesting fact about Russia - Russia boasts of the Urals, the oldest mountains in the world, and Lake Baikal, the world's deepest lake and the largest reserve of fresh water on earth.
Address - 256 West 52nd (212) 757 - 0168